I passed a hamlet and there was a woman gardening in front of a large wooden house. I charged past but the road soon became narrower still, so I turned back and stopped in front of her house. I asked if she spoke English and she said; "yes, a little". She was friendly in a reserved way, though she might have wondered what I was doing there. She gave me directions in perfect English. I had taken the wrong fork some miles back and after another long period of narrow gravel track running along the side of a lake, I found myself on a small but proper road